Member of the jury of this book list: Han Haoyue Yan Han Zhang Jiahong

Column host: Shen Jiequn

One hundred years, many people, many things

Recommended reason:

Yang Yi’s beauty, to a great extent, stems from her status as a resister. Although she didn’t mention the word "resistance" in the whole book, her dissatisfaction and dissatisfaction made her the first person with female consciousness in modern China. Yang Yi’s courage has been consolidated step by step because of her love of literature. According to the story in the book, it is the communication, reading and writing that runs through her life, which helps her to gradually establish her own "castle". Anyone who has read "One Hundred Years, Many People, Many Things" is all moved by Yang Yi’s self-satisfied and ordinary narrative posture and unpretentious writing style, and will also be infected by her pursuit of beauty and her courage to pay for it.

Salt town

Recommended reason:

Salt Town is a book about women, first a record of women’s life, and then a record of women’s survival. Compared with life, survival needs a high degree of generalization and precise refinement. Compared with the random recording, the record reflects the author’s concentration and the value of the first-hand information obtained from the interview. Their life is tired, bitter, and even tormented. There is physical suffering, but also spiritual suffering. Non-tenacious hidden ninjas can’t wade through the tortuous and dim river of years, and they bear the burden of humiliation. Some women suffer all their lives, and some women are "forced" to become strong in life. The author writes them all in the book, not to compare who is tall and who is low, who is good and who is bad, but to make the original ecological presentation as much as possible. Recording their joys, sorrows, loves, hates and enmities actually has the significance of engraving history.

They and them

Recommended reason:

This collection of women’s reports in People magazine tells the fate and soul of women in this era through 12 real women’s stories, from the countryside to the city, from the confusion to the old age. They encounter difficulties, they struggle hard, and remain naive after suffering. Their stories are eternal stories and also stories of human nature, from silence to sound, from strangeness to meeting, and from one person to another.

Opening: An Interview with Female Scholars

Recommended reason:

The Opening: An Interview with Female Scholars tries to break the gender stereotype and the gender barrier in academic circles. In the form of questions and answers, the book has conducted in-depth interviews with 11 scholars, retracing their respective ideological threads and taking stock of their dissatisfaction, confusion, ambitions and dreams around their learning process, gender identity and academic research keywords; Similarly, these life experiences are the pain and happiness shared by most modern women.

Golden branch (full version)

Recommended reason:

There is an ancient village on the bank of Yinghe River-Last Week Village. The dream and reality, roots and branches, origin and present of a family of five generations are vividly presented in this novel. The escape, stabbing pain, separation and integration between relatives of the Zhou family are moving. In the historical cycle of family elites gathering from the countryside to the city and returning from the city to the countryside, it truly shows the great differences and changes between the city and the countryside, and writes the joys and sorrows of life from estrangement to blending.

The writer tells the family story supported by several generations of "golden branches" with the eyes of women. Through the rebellion and contest between the two daughters in the city and the country, the work shows the persistence and struggle, struggle and struggle of family women under the traditional culture. Their unique resilience and strength have propped up the soul and rebirth of the homeland of the Central Plains.

A woman’s story

Recommended reason:

A Woman’s Story is a touching account of mother and daughter, youth and aging, dreams and reality by Nobel Prize winner Anne Elnor. After her mother died of Alzheimer’s disease, the author began a daunting journey back in time, trying to capture the real woman, the woman who existed independently of her daughter. She discusses the fragile and unshakable bond between mother and daughter, the alienated world that separates them, and the inescapable fact that we must lose the people we love. In this calm and powerful tribute, Elnor wants to strive for the greatest fairness for her mother: to portray her as herself.

Dear daughter

Recommended reason:

Gong Jiyeong, the author of The Melting Pot, told his daughter 27 life stories, each of which was based on a simple home-cooked dish. She exposed the scars of the past to her daughter without reservation, and was not afraid to face her sincere self. She told her daughter with personal experience that you can complain about your family and life, but it didn’t help. The important thing in life is to love yourself and strive to grow. This is not only a mother’s encouragement to her daughter, but also a growth gift for everyone. When I feel that my dream is far away and I have been frustrated repeatedly, I might as well open this book and gain the warm power to move on.

The light we carry

Recommended reason:

There may be no perfect solution to the challenges in life, but Michelle Obama believes that we can find some ways to help us point out the course of change and move forward steadily in the torrent. In the book, she talks about the problem that bothers many people: how to establish lasting and sincere interpersonal relationships? How can we draw strength from differences and seek common ground while reserving differences? When you feel self-doubt or helpless, what tools can you use to solve it? By telling her experiences as a mother, a daughter, a partner, a friend and the first lady of the United States, she shared her habits and principles formed when she successfully adapted to change and surmounted many obstacles, and was full of life wisdom.

"Nine Chapters of the Goddess of Luo"

Recommended reason:

This book is the research achievement of Professor Dai Yan for more than ten years. From the aspects of literature, art and history, it reconstructs the literary background and communication process of Cao Zhi’s writing "Ode to Luoshen", so as to break through the old-fashioned interpretation of the theory of "feeling Zhen" and "thinking of Jun", analyze the original meaning of Cao Zhi’s writing "Ode to Luoshen" and explore the literary vitality of "Ode to Luoshen" spanning thousands of years.

Ladies’ relay

Recommended reason:

The Lady Relay is a biography of women’s groups, with nine public female figures who have deeply influenced the feminist movement in the United States as the main body, and outlines the development process of feminist movement in the United States. These women have stories, thoughts and personalities, and have had a wide and in-depth impact on society and history. They founded schools, established organizations, made public speeches, wrote, promoted legislation, explored art, and rebelled against authority … Against the inherent shackles of women in their time, they made hit the floor voices in all fields, which was a model for women to pursue themselves and transform society, and changed the process of American history and civilization with their own actions.

Source: China Youth Daily

Source: China Youth Daily

People’s Daily Online, Beijing, December 11 (Reporter Li Qiaochu) On December 11, data released by the China Automobile Association showed that in November this year, China’s automobile production and sales were 3.093 million and 2.97 million respectively, up 7% and 4.1% from the previous month and 29.4% and 27.4% from the same period last year. Among them, the production and sales of new energy vehicles were 1.074 million and 1.026 million respectively, up by 39.2% and 30% respectively, and the market share reached 34.5%.

According to the China Automobile Association, in November this year, the automobile market continued to be hot. With the help of the "double 11" promotion and other consumer waves, the demand for car purchase was further released, and the market performance continued to improve and exceeded expectations. In November, both automobile production and sales increased year-on-year, passenger cars continued their good trend, commercial vehicles maintained rapid growth, and new energy vehicles and automobile exports led the industry growth. With the continuous appearance of the policy effect, auto shows and promotional activities in various places continue to exert their strength, and the final sprint of enterprises in the last month, it is expected that the auto market will continue to improve in December, reappearing the phenomenon of "jumping tail" at the end of the year. Automobile production and sales are expected to hit a record high throughout the year, exceeding the expected annual forecast target.

Source: People’s Network

journalist | Yao Lifan

New Media of Beauty Headlines

2022 can be said to be a hot year for make-up. Make-up casualties, cutting-edge make-up brands, red people’s own brands, century-old famous beauty giants, have been smashed. In 2022, the financing of make-up brands also fell to freezing point, and no more than five make-up brands received financing.

Is makeup really not working? In fact, from the overall data, the market size of the makeup industry is rising year by year, and the sales volume is also rising continuously.According to Euromonitor data, the scale of China’s cosmetics market has reached 395.8 billion yuan in 2020, and the compound annual growth rate of China’s cosmetics market can reach 12.86% from 2011 to 2025.

At the same time, with the strong rise of the concept of "please yourself", the volume of makeup is also not to be underestimated. Search for "make-up" on the little red book, with related notes of 1.64 million+; The topic of Weibo # Makeup # has been discussed by 1.906 million people and read by 2.54 billion people. Tik Tok # Beauty # topic played 147.9 billion times, and # Makeup # topic played 7.88 billion times.

Recently, the major beauty market data reports are telling us that makeup is not "dying", justThe makeup track has quietly changed.To this end, Xiaobian will sort out the development trend of the makeup market from major data reports, look for new opportunities in the makeup market in 2023, and look forward to bringing business inspiration to the beauty industry in the new year.

01

Facial makeup has developed rapidly.

Refined demand leads to subdivision scheme

Affected by the epidemic, masks can never really be "taken off", and the various sub-categories of makeup are more obviously affected by this. According to the data of the National Bureau of Statistics, in 2022, the growth rate of cosmetics consumption slowed down year-on-year, especially the growth rate of online cosmetics consumption of eyes and lips declined most obviously, and the development potential of facial makeup products was highlighted, with the most outstanding pressure resistance performance among various makeup categories.

According to the data of "Consumption Trend of China Makeup Market in 2022" released by Baidu Marketing, Baidu makeup users’ attention to facial makeup and eye makeup continued to increase for two consecutive years, accounting for 46% and 15% respectively, while lip makeup users’ attention decreased, accounting for 34%.

According to the "Vientiane Tide -2022 Huge Engine Beauty White Paper" released by a huge number of calculations, the daily wearing of masks has reduced the heat of lipstick. At the same time, the nose shadow that highlights the outline and three-dimensional sense of the five senses and the blush that raises the color have ushered in a new heat, and the number of related videos has surged.

As consumers’ demands for product selling points become more detailed and concrete, the demand for each sub-category of make-up becomes different.

Taking base makeup products as an example, according to the function, base makeup products can be divided into three categories: basic base makeup, base makeup and fixed makeup. Basic makeup products are pre-makeup products, including pre-makeup milk and isolation; Priming products include foundation (including liquid foundation/cream, powder cake and BB cream) and concealer; Makeup products mainly include loose powder, honey powder and makeup spray. Besides,Base makeup products have gone out of many styles such as "skin care effect", "pure beauty" and "precise beauty".

02

Makeup sense, makeup, makeup effect

Become the main point of attracting users to make-up products

In the use of makeup, makeup is the key to connect products and makeup effects. The brand began to spend more thought and investment on the content of makeup education in order to effectively convey the brand style and product points. Therefore,Make-up feeling, make-up and make-up effect have become the main points to attract users of make-up products.

"Vientiane Tide -2022 Huge Engine Beauty White Paper" points out that makeup users are more accustomed to understanding the makeup feeling of products through search, video creators prefer to attract traffic with makeup, and makeup-interested users need to learn more about the makeup effect of products through videos. At present, users’ preference for makeup is focused on moisturizing and lasting; The preference of makeup shows a diversified trend; The user’s expectation of makeup effect mainly focuses on the sense of youth and atmosphere.

Therefore, with the help of customized makeup thinking, the brand helps consumers find a more suitable makeup feeling, makeup and makeup effect, in order to arouse more resonance.

It is worth mentioning that,At present, different types of make-up brands have different efforts on makeup feeling, makeup and makeup effect.. Judging from the changing trend of the number of videos with different makeup themes in Tik Tok, international brands have slowed down their investment in makeup sense, and the increment is more evenly distributed to makeup and makeup effect; Local traditional brands mainly promote theme videos related to makeup effect; Local cutting-edge brands have made great efforts in the second half of 2021. The theme video: The sense of makeup is the biggest segment that has been invested by various brands under these three themes.

03

Exquisite nude makeup, national style makeup, easy makeup imitation,

Cyber makeup is a hot concept trend of makeup.

Nowadays, the popular trend of the make-up market is changing with the upgrading of users’ cognition, and it is evolving in the direction of more personalization, scene and bolder coloring. Exquisite nude makeup, Chinese makeup, and atmospheric light makeup … makeup suitable for different scenes has become a hot spot. Brands can seize these nodes and hot spots, and focus on recommending some popular makeup-related makeup items to improve the topic and sales.

(1) Exquisite nude makeup

In the past two years, more and more beauty bloggers have made "original makeup" on the social media platform Amway, which is known as "pseudo-plain makeup", "nude makeup" and "plain water makeup". Such delicate and atmospheric nude makeup has become the mainstream of contemporary makeup. Naked makeup pursues natural and exquisite makeup and skin condition, and the base makeup suitable for skin characteristics is indispensable.

According to the data of Vipshop, the main trend of makeup in the station in 2022 is that the foundation is light and does not take off makeup, the eye shadow requires earth tone, the lipstick prefers moist and translucent, and the words "pseudo-plain face" and "atmosphere" become the main frequency.

(2) National Style Makeup

The rise of national style and tide has brought the popularity of Chinese makeup. From classical beauty to modern new Chinese style, from makeup collocation to Chinese aesthetic products, Chinese beauty has achieved new development in the field of makeup.

Internet big data shows that the attention of the national tide has increased by 528% in the past decade, and the popularity has also spread to the beauty industry. In the past year, the number of viewers of bilibili Guofeng Beauty Video under the age of 18 increased by 46% year-on-year. The most popular video types in this field are imitation makeup, anthropomorphic re-enactment of ancient paintings/cultural relics, creative makeup and tutorials.

(3) Easy makeup imitation

With superb makeup technology and creativity, as well as the content that is different from traditional beauty bloggers, the content of imitation makeup and easy appearance has effectively broadened the audience of traditional beauty videos. Leveraging hot people and paying tribute to classic themes has become a makeup explosion since 2021. According to the search behavior of Baidu users, cluster analysis shows that celebrity imitation makeup, online celebrity Big V imitation makeup and game heroine imitation makeup have a high degree of popularity.

(4) cyber makeup department

Contemporary young people’s attention to beauty is not limited to the present. They also aim at the futuristic cyber makeup system and express their imagination of abstract future such as meta-universe and bionics with makeup skills.

In the past year, bilibili’s futuristic makeup videos were sought after by many age groups, with the group aged 31 and above having the highest growth rate, reaching 584%, followed by the group under 18, with a 380% increase. The brand might as well jump out of the current trend, travel through time and space, and have a textual research or imaginary dialogue with another beauty.

04

Multi-purpose

Products are upgraded in the direction of reducing the difficulty of operation.

With the increasing penetration rate of makeup consumers, the makeup market has become more diversified, and more and more early adopters are eager to try. Cosmetic products are upgraded in the direction of reducing the difficulty of operation, so that novice parties can easily control them. At the same time,The multi-purpose and efficient makeup method lowers the threshold of makeup and faces more consumers.

Make-up with multiple purposes can be roughly divided into two categories:The first category, monochrome multi-purpose productsThat is, one color can be used for different parts, such as lipstick/blush for lips and cheeks, eyebrow pencil/eyeliner for eyebrows and eyeliner, etc. For example, Naiji stubborn lip and cheek mud can be used as lipstick, blush and eye shadow, which is equivalent to three colors;

The second type is to combine different categories into a comprehensive disk to form a multifunctional disk.For example, the two-in-one cosmetic & blush plate, such as Hua Xizi’s hundred birds facing the phoenix relief makeup plate, Kating’s golden finch’s slightly dyed blush plate, and Bellingham’s four-color high-gloss blush plate.

05

Component players enter the game

Cosmetics are increasingly skincare.

With the escalation of consumers’ demands for skin care, more and more makeup players began to pay equal attention to both ingredients and makeup, and the makeup products gradually upgraded from a single makeup function to a skin care function.

According to the "2022 Beauty Trend Insight Report" jointly released by Vogue Business in China and Tik Tok e-commerce, the content broadcast volume and search scale of skin-care makeup have been rising all the way, and consumers are paying more and more attention to the skin-care effect of base makeup, not only pursuing the effects of concealing and holding makeup, but also expecting to nourish the skin and even have more functions.

It is becoming a hot trend for functional ingredients to enter makeup.In recent years, brands at home and abroad have introduced new cosmetic ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, B5 essence, CE essence, water-soluble collagen, peptides, bosin and other skin care ingredients, as well as natural ingredients such as Ganoderma lucidum, aloe vera, peach kernel, ginseng and cordyceps sinensis.

According to CBNData and Yigrowth’s Insight Report on the Trend of Facial Makeup in the Post-epidemic Era, moisturizing is the most concerned effect when consumers buy skin foundation. With the makeup needs of people with sensitive muscles being continuously tapped, the makeup products specialized in sensitive muscles have begun to attract attention, and brands such as Beast Code and Supple Supple have appeared to develop makeup products for sensitive muscle users. Besides,Advanced skin care effects such as anti-aging and whitening are also the blue ocean to be explored in the base makeup market.

In addition, in order to meet the demand of the beauty market,Eye makeup also adds a variety of active skin care ingredients in time to achieve the purpose of combining makeup and nourishing.To further improve the added value of eye makeup items. For example, KISSME Slim Waterproof Eyeliner Pen uses five essences, including hydrolyzed collagen, panthenol, Swertia japonica extract, sodium hyaluronate and Rosa rugosa extract, to further alleviate the problem of eye Zhouyimin.

It is worth mentioning that,There is also a figure of "component party" among makeup experts.Compared with the past, the video content of "Make-up Composition Party" pays more attention to the composition analysis of make-up products, and even uses formula ideas to analyze the degree of makeup holding and skin friendliness.

06

Under the concept of sustainability

"Pure makeup" is more favored by consumers.

With the increasing emphasis on the concept of environmental protection and sustainability, as well as the improvement of cosmetic safety requirements, domestic beauty consumers have also begun to use "friendly makeup" and "pure makeup" that are healthy, harmless to the skin and friendly to the environment.

In the "Future Trends of Global Beauty Care in 2022" published by Mintel, it is mentioned that with the concept of sustainability deeply rooted in people’s hearts, 47% of China consumers are willing to upgrade their consumption for environmental protection, and they are willing to spend more money on environmentally friendly beauty/care products, and 85% of China consumers hope that famous beauty brands will have more innovative sustainable concepts.

At present, there are three main standards for pure make-up..First, do not add controversial chemical componentsAdvocate vegan safety and health;Second, refuse animal experimentsAdvocate "zero cruelty"; Third, the ingredients and even the packaging are environmentally friendly..

For example, Dewy Lab, the first pure beauty brand in China, claimed that it would not add any harmful and controversial harmful ingredients, and its products followed the standards of user-friendliness, life-friendliness and earth-friendliness. At the same time, the brand has also formulated the "DCBS purity standard". At present, more than 70 kinds of risk components in 10 categories have been eliminated, ensuring the safety of each product.

07

The trend of makeup rejuvenation is obvious.

The rapid rise of gender-free makeup

With the rapid development of Internet and society, consumers of Generation Z began to question the binary opposition market classification, and showed more interest in inclusive products with updated concepts. Mixed make-up products with wider categories and more color numbers also provided consumers of Generation Z with more choices.

It is mentioned in the "Vientiane Tide -2022 Huge Engine Beauty White Paper" released by the huge calculation.The interested users in the makeup industry are mainly women, but compared with last year, the proportion of male users has increased.; From the age point of view, the proportion of users aged 18-23 and over 50 years old has increased, and users interested in cosmetics have shown a trend of breaking circles in all ages.

Diversified aesthetics and a more open and inclusive social environment make men’s make-up and gender-free make-up a hot topic. According to the statistics of the new product library of Meiye Yan Research Institute, it is found that weakening gender, unlimited skin color, undefined, minimalist, pure and environmentally friendly packaging have become the key words for brands to create "gender-free" new products, and these labels are more likely to be recognized and appreciated by a new generation of young people.

08

The demand for makeup in sports scenes has been discovered.

High-strength sweat-proof makeup is favored.

"Exercise for two minutes and take a selfie for one hour." The self-deprecating realism of netizens reveals the preferences of young people who are keen to share their lives in various scenes. Their pursuit of beauty is everywhere, even in sports and social occasions. There are 13.69 million+notes on "sports" in Little Red Book. Besides common sports wear and sharing with practice, gym makeup teaching, sports beauty and grass planting have also become common.

At the same time,The sports+beauty marketing event also led to the upsurge of "sports beauty" products.Focusing on providing nursing solutions in the sports scene and solving skin problems that may be caused during exercise is becoming the next outlet.

Based on the Z generation’s love for sports and fitness, the demand for makeup in sports scenes has been discovered, and high-intensity sweat-proof makeup is more favored by them, and brands have also launched related products. For example, Clinique launched ClinqueFit series specially designed for sports, including cosmetics, loose powder, moisturizing cream and other products, focusing on high-strength sweat-proof performance, so that the skin can remain dry during exercise. Tarte, an American beauty brand, cooperated with Sephora to launch the Hustle&Glow series of sports beauty, including 12 kinds of products such as sunscreen, repairing capacity and high gloss, which is characterized by high color rendering, strong sweat-proof and waterproof functions.

09

Customized makeup is on the rise.

With the popularization of beauty education, beauty consumers are more and more aware of rational skin care for their own skin conditions. Similarly, with the increasingly diversified aesthetic trend of the makeup industry, consumers have more ideas on purchasing products. The makeup consumers in the new era are seeking exclusive and customized items.

According to market research company Mintel, nearly 50% consumers hope to get their own customized personalized beauty products, and the demand for personalized cosmetics is constantly increasing.

In view of consumers’ pursuit of individuality, brands will naturally not give up the opportunity to seize consumers and launch customized products and services.For example, Amore Pacific’s personal customization service "BESPOKE NEO" claims to instantly produce 150 air cushions and liquid foundations suitable for women’s skin color around the world through skin testing and one-on-one consultation.

It is worth mentioning that on November 10th, 2022, official website, the State Food and Drug Administration, issued the Notice of the General Department of the State Food and Drug Administration on the Pilot Work of Personalized Cosmetic Services, and carried out the pilot work of personalized cosmetic services in Beijing, Shanghai, Zhejiang, Shandong and Guangdong provinces (cities), and encouraged the pilot enterprises to carry out pilot projects in skin testing, product tracking and personalized skin care service programs around common cosmetics such as makeup and skin care. This means that the blessing of policies will accelerate the exploration and landing of customized make-up products.

10

Scene digitization

The brand began to create a new interactive scene of makeup.

With the emergence of NFT and blockchain concepts, brands have also begun to create new scenes of makeup interaction.Through virtual technology, online makeup test, experience the product effect, or combine the user experience with digital technology such as makeup art collection and rights binding, provide consumers with self-identity value beyond products and brands, and enhance user stickiness. The cumulative broadcast volume of #NFT topic on Tik Tok platform reached 1.17 billion times.

NFT is a digital asset verified by blockchain technology, which is irreplaceable, indivisible, easy to verify and unique. It is generally suitable for marking the ownership of specific assets. NFT includes art collections, rights and interests and virtual makeup. NFT has become a hot topic in recent two years.

In addition, many beauty companies and retailers began to base themselves on the development of blockchain technology and launched many experimental platforms and virtual spaces. Blockchain technology can clearly record every group of data information in the beauty industry chain. The unchangeable data is not only conducive to the traceability of beauty products, but also ensures that every link in the entire cosmetics industry chain is transparent and safe. It can also develop multiple virtual scenes, which opens up a richer imagination for beauty brands, brings subversive application scenarios to the beauty industry, and stimulates existing customers from the marketing perspective.

The above trend shows that with the continuous upgrading of young people’s beauty consumption mentality, consumers have different demands for make-up products.What the brand needs most is to find the right outlet, grasp the frontier trend of makeup, do its own market segmentation, accurately attack the pain points of consumers, and strengthen the technical barriers of products to bring consumers better products and experiences.

edit | Huang Youzhi

supervise the manufacture | Chen Shanhua